Here is an address that deserves to be cited for its originality, the quality of its products and its achievements. The subject of the workshop of tartar is a new variation of meat and fish.
The consumption of meat and raw fish has never had this much wind in its sails. The reason? A desire to find the authentic taste and natural quality products, but also a desire to preserve both the taste but also the nutritional value of the food.
These are the values that Chef Dorian Ibanez cultivates, while using his gastro know-how that is suspected to be influenced by Nordic and Japanese culinary cultures, see below.
Dorian Ibanez started at the restaurant "Laurent" of the starred chef Alain Pegouret. He was was working with Bruno Doucet and then Yves Camdeborde, the father of the bistronomy at "La Régalade", continued in the very nice restaurant "Les Chouettes" with Alban Drevet. So, at 25, he already has a well filled head.
The decor is sober, a bit in the spirit of Japanese restaurants where the color is shy and there is the Zen atmosphere. There is a bar where the brigade of cooks prepare, assemble but do not cook. So, goodbye smells, the main disadvantage of the open kitchen.
This open kitchen is also a demand of quality corresponding to a growing expectation.
The Japanese excel in making dishes composed of unprocessed products. Their secret: Flawless products. It seems that here they are inspired by this culture.
At the Atelier du Tartar, the meat comes from the Boucheries Nivernaises, the goldsmith of the butcher's shop or from Metzger, no less famous and distributing sublime qualities with sometimes staggering prices. The fish and crustaceans make a short way from Calvados, sent by Alain Tesson, supplier of the starred chefs. Spanish sausages are sourced from Aitana. In short, there is something to satisfy for the lovers of real products for a real kitchen.
The menu contains the entries that are available between 7 and 12€, tartars and carpaccios, between 18 and 25€, and the desserts between 7 and 10€.
The prices of carpaccio and tartar are therefore above the average market price, but it can be understood that we are not in an ordinary brewery, serving ordinary products here. A lunch formula with studied prices is proposed however to 17€ with tartar or carpaccio of the day, an accompaniment and dessert of the day 17€. A version with an entry, dessert dish is also offered at 23€.
Salmon, tuna, bar, veal and beef are found in carpaccio and tartar. A few examples:
Gravlax of salmon, mini blinis, lemon jam (9€): A Scandinavian recipe interpreted with mini blinis, fresh cheese mousse, lemon marinades, watercress and anchovies. It is as delicate and refined to the eye as in the mouth.
Carpaccio of bar (16€): bar marinated with lemon, raspberries, fresh cheeses, tomato sauce, salicorn.
Here is the Beef tartare (25€) prepared with a knife and accompanied by a flowing egg yolk, seasoned with espumas (mousses) whose preparation seems a little secret. It is superb and what’s more, more it is very delicious.
As a garnish you can choose homemade fries, green salad or coleslaw (cabbages and carrots, onions).
The dessert menu is not left out (verrine, tartar of red fruit, chocolate temptation...). In the end, we eat healthy and light food and it is also good for the taste buds and for the body.
Last little tip: The terrace is very nice, combined with the consumption of such products. But come early and book!