Montmartre, off the beaten track

Here are 12 addresses that are mostly unknown to guidebooks. Streets, stores, restaurants, vineyards, cinemas, churches, here is the selection recommended by the Relais du Louvre.

Villa Léandre

Small dead end located at 27 rue Junot

Les Tantes Jeanne

This gastronomic restaurant specializes in excellent meats and wonders of the vegetable garden and is one of the only restaurants in Paris to offer authentic Kobe beef.

Les Tantes Jeanne
42 rue Véron, 75018 PARIS
Tel: 01 42 51 14 21
Open Monday to Tuesday from 6:00 pm to 11:30 pm and Wednesday to Sunday from 12:00 pm to 3:00 pm and from 6:00 pm to 11:30 pm

Studio 28

This charming small independent cinema, classified “Art et Essai” (Art House), was the meeting place of painters, poets and filmmakers such as Luis Buñuel, Jean Cocteau and Abel Gance.

The films are screened in their original version, with French directors in the majority.

Studio 28
10 Rue Tholozé, 75018 Paris


Independent traders, just the way we like them! A stop at this address is a must if you want to bring back original, charming and very affordable gifts. A large number of products are created by the owner.

3 Rue Tardieu
From Thursday to Monday from 12:00 pm to 7:00 pm

Place des Abbesses and the Saint-Jean de Montmartre church

This is one of the most charming and representative squares in Montmartre Village. You can get there by the Abbesses station, which is the deepest in Paris, whose exit features an Art Nouveau aedicule designed by Hector Guimard. It is one of the last of the 167 that were installed by Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris (the Metropolitan Railway Company of Paris) at the beginning of the last century.

You will then be able to reach the Saint-Jean de Montmartre church. Its early 20th-century architecture is very interesting.

Saint-Jean de Montmartre church from a café in Place des Abbesses

Learn more about Saint-Jean de Montmartre church:

Jardin des Abbesses

An ideal place to visit if you are looking for a moment of peace and quiet. It’s perfect for enjoying a small reading break, for example. Here you will find medicinal plants such as sage, verbena, rosemary, laurel, lovage, fennel, lemon balm and other simple plants, used in the past to cure all kinds of ailments.

Jardin des Abbesses
Passage des Abbesses

Rue Foyatier

A typical image of the legendary Montmartre, but it conveys, even for the most rooted Parisians, incomparable charm. We love it, and we will never stop loving it.

Rue de l’Abreuvoir and La Maison Rose

La Maison Rose – Eugène Atget – 1910

This is another popular image that it would be a shame not to capture during a walk. La Maison Rose is a place that is very well known in guidebooks and websites. We haven’t tested the restaurant. A coffee break would, in any case, be recommended.

La Maison Rose
Closed on Monday and Tuesday

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

If you’re looking to have tea rather than a meal, this place has a very pleasant garden. Ranked in our selection of the most beautiful terraces in Paris, this place will offer you a peaceful and romantic break.

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre
23, avenue Junot, Pavillon
Metro Lamarck – Caulaincourt
Monday to Saturday from 6:00 pm to 2:00 am, Sunday from 6:00 pm to midnight

Le Clos Montmartre

These vines were planted in the 12th century by the nuns of the now-defunct Montmartre Abbey. With the proliferation of housing, the vines were gradually cut back until they disappeared completely in 1928. In 1933, the city of Paris created Le Clos by planting 2,000 vines. The first harvest festival was held in 1934, sponsored by Mistinguett and Fernandel. This event has survived and is held every year in early October.

The vineyard is operated by the gardeners of the Town Hall of Paris and produces between 500 and 600 liters of wine.

Le Clos Montmartre

14–18 rue des Saules – 75018 Paris 

Musée de la Vie romantique (Museum of Romantic Life, or Museum of the Romantics)

This Museum has earned its name as it is a truly charming place, suspended in the middle of Paris.

The building, built in 1830, is the former home of Dutch-born painter Ary Scheffer, and was indeed an inspiration for romanticism in Paris. Some visitors included Chopin, George Sand, Gounod, Dickens, Stravinsky, Ernest Renand, Delacroix, Rossini, Turgenev…

The museum is modest, but the charm of the place is undeniable. Café, terrace and a very pleasant garden.

Learn more:

Musée de la Vie romantique
Hotel Scheffer-Renan
16, rue Chaptal – 75009 Paris
Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm.

Entry to permanent collections is free.
Prices for temporary exhibitions depend on the museums and exhibitions.

Le Vieux Chalet

Adresse secrète qui n’est pas un lieu de gastronomie mais un lieu d’expérience à fréquenter au printemps et en été. Il jouit d’un jardin intérieur tout à fait agréable et recommandé pour trainer en début d’après-midi. Un lieu cristallisé bien à l’image de ces adresses typiquement Montmartroises. Il est en tout cas surtout fréquenté majoritairement par les Montmartrois. On se connait, on se parle de table à table et l’on s’appelle par son prénom. Charmant.

Le Vieux Chalet
14 bis, rue Norvins
Du mardi au dimanche midi. Fermé le premier mardi de chaque mois
Fermé de décembre à février
Tel +33 01 46 06 21 44

19, rue des Prêtres-Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois
75001 Paris

+33 (0)1 40 41 96 42

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